Chain stitch
Ancient looped stitch used in embroidery and machine sewing.
Chain stitch is a method of sewing and embroidery where loops of thread link together to create a pattern that resembles a chain. This technique is very old; silk thread embroideries using chain stitch from China have survived from the Warring States period, between the 5th and 3rd centuries BC. When done by hand, the needle only needs to go through a single layer of cloth, which makes it a good choice for decorating the surface of finished fabric near seams. Because chain stitches can create smooth, curved lines, they appear in many types of surface embroidery that aim to imitate drawing with thread.
Chain stitch is also employed in making tambour lace, needlelace, macramé, and crochet. In the Sheki region of Azerbaijan, this ancient needlework is called tekeldus.
The oldest archaeological evidence of chain stitch embroidery comes from China around 1100 BC, found in royal tombs and made with silk threads. More examples have been found dating to the Warring States period. Chain stitch designs traveled to Iran via the Silk Road.
In hand embroidery, chain stitch and its variations are essential to many cultural traditions, including Kashmiri numdahs, Iranian Resht work, Central Asian suzani, Hungarian Kalotaszeg "written embroidery," Jacobean embroidery, and crewelwork.
Early sewing machines used chain stitch, but because it unravels easily from fabric, it was soon replaced by the more secure lockstitch. This easy unraveling of single-thread chain stitch (ISO 4915:1991 stitch 101) is still used industrially to close bulk bags. Machine embroidery in chain stitch, often in traditional hand-worked crewel designs, appears on curtains, bed linens, and upholstery fabrics.
Hand variations of the basic chain stitch include back-stitched chain stitch, braided stitching, cable chain stitch, knotted chain stitch, open chain stitch, petal chain stitch, rosette chain stitch, Singalese chain stitch, twisted chain stitch, wheat-ear stitch, and zig-zag chain stitch.
For machine variants, the basic chain stitch works by sending the needle down through the material. As the needle rises, friction forms a small loop on the underside, which is caught by a circular needle beneath the work. The machine moves the material forward, projecting the loop from the previous stitch. The next drop of the needle goes through that previous loop, the circular needle releases the first loo
- earliest_archaeological_evidence
- 1100 BC in China
- field
- Sewing and embroidery technique
- known_for
- Loop stitches forming a chain-like pattern; used in hand embroidery, machine sewing, tambour lace, needlelace, macramé, and crochet
- regional_name
- Tekeldus in Sheki, Azerbaijan
Lore & Background
The earliest archaeological evidence of chain stitch embroidery dates from 1100 BC in China, excavated from royal tombs and made using threads of silk. Chain stitch embroidery has also been found dating to the Warring States period. Chain stitch designs spread to Iran through the Silk Road. In Azerbaijan, in the Sheki region, this ancient type of needlework is called tekeldus.
Reader's Guide
Chain stitch is fundamental to embroidery traditions of many cultures, including Kashmiri numdahs, Iranian Resht work, Central Asian suzani, Hungarian Kalotaszeg 'written embroidery', Jacobean embroidery, and crewelwork. It was the stitch used by early sewing machines, but because it is easily unravelled from fabric, it was soon replaced with the more secure lockstitch. However, this ease of unraveling continues to be exploited industrially for closing bags for bulk products. Machine embroidery in chain stitch, often in traditional hand-worked crewel designs, is found on curtains, bed linens, and upholstery fabrics. The double chain stitch uses two threads per needle and is used in the construction of denim jeans; it requires no bobbin or bobbin case, allowing narrow post bed machines for stitching leather onto gloves and enabling multiple needles for topstitching. Double chain stitch is also used to close large bags, as it can be easily unraveled for opening.
Did You Know?
- Surviving Chinese chain stitch embroidery worked in silk thread has been dated to the Warring States period (5th–3rd century BC).
- Chain stitch was the stitch used by early sewing machines, but was soon replaced by the more secure lockstitch.
- In Azerbaijan, in the Sheki region, chain stitch needlework is called tekeldus.
- Double chain stitch is used in the construction of denim jeans and requires no bobbin or bobbin case.
More in Chinese inventions 1-24
Spotted an error? Know more?
This is a living reference — every entry is fact-audited, and reader corrections feed straight into our audit queue. Suggest an edit · See this site's audit record